@font-face{font-family:PV DM Sans;font-style:normal;font-weight:400 700;font-display:swap;src:url(/fonts/preview/dm-sans-latin.woff2)format("woff2");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}@font-face{font-family:PV Fraunces;font-style:normal;font-weight:400 600;font-display:swap;src:url(/fonts/preview/fraunces-latin.woff2)format("woff2");unicode-range:U+??,U+131,U+152-153,U+2BB-2BC,U+2C6,U+2DA,U+2DC,U+304,U+308,U+329,U+2000-206F,U+20AC,U+2122,U+2191,U+2193,U+2212,U+2215,U+FEFF,U+FFFD}@property --draw{syntax:"<number>";inherits:true;initial-value:0}._mag_10zn0_15{--sable:#f4f0e6;--sable-2:#e8e1d3;--ecume:#fbf8f2;--nuit:#13252d;--encre:#1b2b31;--gris:#4c5552;--ocre:var(--creator-accent,#8a5a19);--ocre-clair:#d9a05b;--thalassa:#bfe3f7;--filet:#1b2b3124;--gutter:clamp(16px, 4vw, 40px);--main:680px;--wide:1120px;--serif:"Fraunces", "Fraunces Fallback", "PV Fraunces", Georgia, serif;--serif-italic:var(--font-serif-italic,"Fraunces"), "Fraunces", "PV Fraunces", Georgia, serif;--sans:"DM Sans", "DM Sans Fallback", "PV DM Sans", system-ui, sans-serif;--ease:cubic-bezier(.16, 1, .3, 1);--t-une:clamp(3rem, 1.4rem + 5.2vw, 6.75rem);--t-jour:clamp(2.5rem, 1.6rem + 3.6vw, 4.75rem);--t-h2:clamp(2rem, 1.4rem + 2.6vw, 3.25rem);--t-chapo:clamp(1.2rem, 1.1rem + .6vw, 1.55rem);--t-texte:clamp(1.06rem, 1.02rem + .2vw, 1.18rem);--t-chiffre:clamp(2.4rem, 1.8rem + 2.6vw, 4.25rem);background:var(--sable);color:var(--encre);font-family:var(--sans);font-synthesis:style;overflow-x:clip}._mag_10zn0_15 ::selection{background:var(--thalassa);color:var(--nuit)}._mag_10zn0_15 a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}._mag_10zn0_15 a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:2px}._mag_10zn0_15 :is(a,button,summary):focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--ocre);outline-offset:3px;border-radius:2px}._mag_10zn0_15 article :is(a,button,summary){scroll-margin:96px 0}._nowrap_10zn0_51{white-space:nowrap}._arrow_10zn0_52{display:inline-block}._kicker_10zn0_54{color:var(--ocre);font:600 .75rem/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:0 0 10px}._une_10zn0_63{background:var(--sable);display:grid;position:relative}._uneMast_10zn0_69{padding:12px var(--gutter);background:var(--nuit);color:var(--sable);font:600 .72rem/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.6em;margin:0;display:flex}._uneMast_10zn0_69 a{color:var(--ocre-clair);text-decoration:none}._uneMast_10zn0_69 a:hover{text-decoration:underline}._uneIssue_10zn0_85{letter-spacing:.14em;opacity:.8;margin-left:auto}._unePhoto_10zn0_87{background:#dfe6ea;margin:0;position:relative;overflow:hidden}._unePhoto_10zn0_87 img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:var(--m-ratio);object-fit:cover;object-position:var(--m-focus,50% 50%);display:block}._uneText_10zn0_103{padding:26px var(--gutter) 30px;gap:18px;display:grid}._uneKicker_10zn0_109{color:var(--gris);font:600 .75rem/1.4 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:0}._une_10zn0_63 h1{color:var(--nuit);letter-spacing:0;margin:0;font-weight:400;line-height:1}._uneEyebrow_10zn0_119{color:var(--ocre);font:italic 400 clamp(1.25rem, 1rem + 1vw, 1.9rem)/1.1 var(--serif-italic);letter-spacing:0;margin-bottom:.3em;display:block}._unePlace_10zn0_127{font:400 var(--t-une)/.9 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.035em;text-wrap:balance;display:block}._unePlace_10zn0_127:first-letter{text-transform:uppercase}._unePrologue_10zn0_136{max-width:34ch;font:italic 400 var(--t-chapo)/1.4 var(--serif-italic);color:var(--encre);margin:0}._byline_10zn0_144{grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);grid-template-areas:"pic name""pic links";align-items:center;column-gap:16px;width:fit-content;max-width:100%;display:grid}._bylineName_10zn0_145{color:var(--nuit);font:500 1.5rem/1.1 var(--serif);grid-area:name;margin:0}._bylineName_10zn0_145 a{color:inherit;-webkit-text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, var(--ocre) 50%, transparent);text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, var(--ocre) 50%, transparent);text-underline-offset:4px}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147{font:600 .9rem/1.2 var(--sans);flex-wrap:wrap;grid-area:links;align-items:center;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:flex}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 li{align-items:center;display:flex}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 li+li:before{content:"";background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--nuit) 25%, transparent);width:1px;height:14px;margin:0 14px}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 a{min-height:44px;color:var(--nuit);-webkit-text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, currentColor 30%, transparent);text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, currentColor 30%, transparent);text-underline-offset:4px;align-items:center;display:inline-flex}._portrait_10zn0_151{object-fit:cover;width:64px;height:64px;box-shadow:0 0 0 2px var(--sable), 0 0 0 3.5px var(--ocre);border-radius:50%;flex:none}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 ._sourceLink_10zn0_152{color:var(--ocre)}._bylineCompact_10zn0_154{flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;column-gap:0;display:flex}._bylineBy_10zn0_155{color:var(--gris);font:600 .72rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-right:8px}._bylineCompact_10zn0_154 ._bylineLinks_10zn0_147:before{content:"";background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--nuit) 30%, transparent);width:1px;height:18px;margin:0 16px}._bylineCompact_10zn0_154 ._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 ._sourceLink_10zn0_152{color:var(--nuit);-webkit-text-decoration-color:var(--ocre);text-decoration-color:var(--ocre);text-decoration-thickness:1.5px}._bylineCompact_10zn0_154 ._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 ._sourceLink_10zn0_152 [aria-hidden=true]{color:var(--ocre);opacity:1}._bylineLinks_10zn0_147 a [aria-hidden=true]{opacity:.7;margin-left:.2em}._portraitFigure_10zn0_162{flex:none;grid-area:pic;justify-items:center;gap:9px;margin:0;display:grid}._portraitFigure_10zn0_162 figcaption{color:var(--gris);white-space:nowrap;font-size:.68rem;line-height:1}._portraitFigure_10zn0_162 figcaption a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}._portraitFigure_10zn0_162 figcaption a:hover{text-decoration:underline}._open_10zn0_167{justify-items:start;gap:8px;display:grid}._open_10zn0_167 small{color:var(--gris);font-size:.85rem;line-height:1.4}._cta_10zn0_171{background:var(--ocre);min-height:56px;font:700 1rem/1.2 var(--sans);text-align:center;border-radius:999px;padding:17px 26px;display:inline-block;color:#fff!important;text-decoration:none!important}._cta_10zn0_171:hover{box-shadow:0 12px 26px -14px #13252d99}._ctaGhost_10zn0_185{border:1.5px solid var(--ocre);min-height:48px;font:700 .95rem/1.2 var(--sans);border-radius:999px;padding:13px 20px;display:inline-block;color:var(--ocre)!important;text-decoration:none!important}._uneCredit_10zn0_197{z-index:2;right:var(--gutter);max-width:calc(100% - 2 * var(--gutter));color:#f4f0e6;letter-spacing:.03em;background:#13252dbf;border-radius:999px;margin:0;padding:4px 10px;font-size:.78rem;position:absolute;bottom:10px}._uneCredit_10zn0_197 a{color:#f4f0e6}._contributor_10zn0_215{padding:clamp(48px, 7vw, 96px) var(--gutter);background:var(--nuit);color:var(--sable);margin:0}._contributorInner_10zn0_222{width:min(var(--wide), 100%);grid-template-columns:104px minmax(0,1fr);grid-template-areas:"pic kicker""pic name""intro intro""links links";align-items:end;column-gap:20px;margin:0 auto;display:grid}._contributorPortrait_10zn0_233{grid-area:pic;align-self:center;justify-items:center;gap:14px;margin:0;display:grid}._contributorPortrait_10zn0_233 img{object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 30%;outline-offset:6px;border-radius:2px;outline:1px solid #d9a05b8c;width:104px;height:130px}._contributorRound_10zn0_235 img{border-radius:50%;height:104px}._contributorPortrait_10zn0_233 figcaption{color:#c9c3b6;letter-spacing:.04em;white-space:nowrap;font-size:.72rem;line-height:1}._contributorPortrait_10zn0_233 figcaption a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}._contributorPortrait_10zn0_233 figcaption a:hover{text-decoration:underline}._contributorKicker_10zn0_239{color:var(--ocre-clair);font:600 .72rem/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;grid-area:kicker;align-items:center;gap:14px;margin:0 0 10px;display:flex}._contributorKicker_10zn0_239:before{content:"";background:currentColor;width:40px;height:1px}._contributor_10zn0_215 h2{color:var(--sable);font:400 clamp(2.75rem, 1.6rem + 3.6vw, 5rem)/.95 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.03em;flex-wrap:wrap;grid-area:name;align-items:baseline;gap:6px 16px;margin:0;display:flex}._contributorHandle_10zn0_242{color:var(--ocre-clair);font:600 1rem/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:0}._contributorIntro_10zn0_243{color:#e9e3d6;max-width:38ch;font:italic 400 clamp(1.25rem, 1.1rem + .7vw, 1.65rem)/1.45 var(--serif-italic);text-wrap:pretty;border-top:1px solid #f4f0e629;grid-area:intro;margin:22px 0 0;padding-top:18px}._contributorLinks_10zn0_244{flex-direction:column;grid-area:links;gap:10px;margin:24px 0 0;display:flex}._contributorLinks_10zn0_244 a{min-height:52px;font:700 .95rem/1.2 var(--sans);border-radius:999px;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:10px;padding:0 24px;transition:background-color .2s,border-color .2s;display:inline-flex;text-decoration:none!important}._contributorLinks_10zn0_244 svg{flex:none;width:18px;height:18px}._contributorPrimary_10zn0_248{background:var(--ocre-clair);color:var(--nuit)!important}._contributorPrimary_10zn0_248:hover{background:#e4b578}._contributorSecondary_10zn0_250{border:1px solid #f4f0e673;color:var(--sable)!important}._contributorSecondary_10zn0_250:hover{border-color:var(--sable);background:#f4f0e60f}._contributor_10zn0_215 :focus-visible{outline-color:var(--ocre-clair)!important}._mag_10zn0_15 .back-to-top{background:var(--nuit);border-color:#f4f0e68c;box-shadow:0 8px 24px -10px #13252d80}._mag_10zn0_15 .back-to-top:focus-visible{outline-color:var(--ocre)}@media (hover:hover){._mag_10zn0_15 .back-to-top:hover{background:color-mix(in srgb, var(--nuit) 82%, #fff)}}@media (max-width:1023px){._mag_10zn0_15 .back-to-top{display:none!important}}@media (min-width:1024px) and (max-height:820px){._unePrologue_10zn0_136{display:none}}._stats_10zn0_263{max-width:calc(var(--wide) + 2 * var(--gutter));padding:0 var(--gutter);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(9.5rem,1fr));gap:1px;margin:28px auto 0;display:grid}._stats_10zn0_263 div{border-top:1px solid var(--ocre);flex-direction:column-reverse;gap:8px;padding:22px 18px 20px;display:flex}._stats_10zn0_263 div:last-child:nth-child(odd){grid-column:1/-1}._stats_10zn0_263 dd{color:var(--nuit);font:400 var(--t-chiffre)/.95 var(--serif);font-variant-numeric:lining-nums;letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:0}._stats_10zn0_263 dd small{letter-spacing:0;font-size:.42em}._stats_10zn0_263 dt{color:var(--gris);font:600 .72rem/1.35 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}._route_10zn0_279{max-width:calc(var(--wide) + 2 * var(--gutter));padding:0 var(--gutter);gap:32px;margin:clamp(56px,9vw,112px) auto 0;display:grid}._route_10zn0_279 h2,._articleCard_10zn0_287 h2{color:var(--nuit);font:400 var(--t-h2)/1.05 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.02em;text-wrap:balance;margin:0 0 18px}._routeWhy_10zn0_288{max-width:52ch;font:400 clamp(1.15rem, 1.05rem + .5vw, 1.4rem)/1.6 var(--serif);margin:0}._note_10zn0_289{color:var(--gris);margin:14px 0 0;font-size:.9rem;font-style:italic;line-height:1.5}._routeDays_10zn0_292{margin:0}._routeDays_10zn0_292 ol{border-top:1px solid var(--filet);margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}._routeDays_10zn0_292 a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--filet);color:var(--encre);grid-template-columns:22px 1fr;column-gap:12px;padding:12px 0;text-decoration:none;display:grid}._routeDays_10zn0_292 a:hover b{text-decoration:underline;-webkit-text-decoration-color:var(--ocre);text-decoration-color:var(--ocre);text-underline-offset:3px}._routeDayNumber_10zn0_296{background:var(--ocre);color:#fff;width:22px;height:22px;font:700 .72rem/1 var(--sans);border-radius:50%;grid-row:1/3;place-items:center;margin-top:1px;display:grid}._routeDays_10zn0_292 b{color:var(--ocre);font:600 .74rem/1.4 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase}._routeDays_10zn0_292 a>span:last-child{color:var(--gris);font:400 .92rem/1.45 var(--sans)}._routeMap_10zn0_300{margin:0}._routeMap_10zn0_300 svg{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}._routeMap_10zn0_300 figcaption{color:var(--gris);margin-top:10px;font-size:.82rem}._alert_10zn0_305{max-width:var(--main);padding:10px var(--gutter) 0;color:#7a2f1f;border-top:2px solid #b64a32;margin:32px auto 0;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.5}._flow_10zn0_315 ._alert_10zn0_305{max-width:none;margin:32px 0 0;padding:10px 0 0}._chapter_10zn0_318{margin-top:clamp(72px,11vw,140px)}._chapterOpen_10zn0_320{display:grid}._frame_10zn0_323._openerPhoto_10zn0_323,._frame_10zn0_323._endPhoto_10zn0_323{width:min(100%, calc(var(--native,1600px) * 1.1));margin:0 auto}._openerPhoto_10zn0_323 ._frameImage_10zn0_324 img{aspect-ratio:var(--m-ratio,4 / 5)}._openerPhoto_10zn0_323 figcaption{padding:6px var(--gutter) 0;text-align:right}._chapterTitle_10zn0_328{padding:34px var(--gutter) 30px;background:var(--panel,var(--sable-2));color:var(--panel-ink,var(--nuit));gap:4px;display:grid;position:relative}._chapterTitle_10zn0_328 ._kicker_10zn0_54{color:var(--panel-kicker,var(--ocre))}._chapterTitle_10zn0_328 h2{font:400 var(--t-jour)/.95 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.03em;text-wrap:balance;margin:0}._chapterNum_10zn0_341{color:var(--panel-kicker,var(--ocre));font:italic 400 clamp(4rem, 3rem + 6vw, 9rem)/.8 var(--serif-italic);font-variant-numeric:lining-nums;margin:0;position:absolute;bottom:calc(100% - .32em);right:24px}._lead_10zn0_351{max-width:38ch;font:italic 400 var(--t-chapo)/1.4 var(--serif-italic);margin:12px 0 0}._tone-blue_10zn0_353{--panel:#2c5a85;--panel-ink:#fff;--panel-kicker:#fdf0d8}._tone-sunset_10zn0_354{--panel:#eca77c;--panel-ink:#2a1a14;--panel-kicker:#5a2a12}._tone-night_10zn0_355{--panel:var(--nuit);--panel-ink:var(--sable);--panel-kicker:var(--ocre-clair)}._tone-sand_10zn0_356{--panel:var(--sable-2);--panel-kicker:#734a12}._tone-sky_10zn0_357{--panel:#c1d2e2;--panel-ink:#17302e;--panel-kicker:#17302e}._dayGrid_10zn0_359{max-width:calc(var(--wide) + 2 * var(--gutter));padding:0 var(--gutter);margin:0 auto;display:grid}._dayMap_10zn0_366{display:none}._suggested_10zn0_369{color:var(--gris);font:600 .72rem/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:40px 0 -24px}._stops_10zn0_371{border-left:1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--ocre) 60%, transparent);margin:40px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none}._stop_10zn0_371{padding:0 0 44px 28px;position:relative}._stop_10zn0_371:before{content:"";background:var(--sable);width:11px;height:11px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 2.5px var(--ocre);transition:scale .3s var(--ease), background .3s;border-radius:50%;position:absolute;top:.62em;left:-6px}._stop_10zn0_371:has(._leg_10zn0_392):before{top:calc(.62em + 38px)}._leg_10zn0_392{color:var(--gris);font:italic 400 .95rem/1.4 var(--serif-italic);margin:0 0 14px -28px;padding:0 0 0 28px}._leg_10zn0_392:before{content:"";vertical-align:middle;border-top:1.5px dashed var(--ocre);width:18px;height:1px;margin-right:8px;display:inline-block}._legFar_10zn0_400{color:var(--encre)}._stopNum_10zn0_402{color:var(--ocre);font:600 .9rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.04em;font-variant-numeric:lining-nums;margin:0 0 2px}._stop_10zn0_371 h3{color:var(--nuit);font:500 clamp(1.45rem, 1.2rem + 1vw, 1.9rem)/1.15 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.01em;text-wrap:balance;margin:0}._stopText_10zn0_404{max-width:60ch;font:400 var(--t-texte)/1.6 var(--serif);margin:10px 0 0}._marginNote_10zn0_407{border-left:2px solid var(--ocre);max-width:52ch;margin:20px 0 0;padding:2px 0 2px 18px}._noteTitle_10zn0_408{color:var(--ocre);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;font:600 .75rem/1.3 var(--sans)!important;margin:0 0 6px!important}._marginNote_10zn0_407 p{font:italic 400 1.08rem/1.55 var(--serif-italic);margin:0}._pairRow_10zn0_411{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:6px;display:grid}._pairRow_10zn0_411 ._frame_10zn0_323{margin-top:20px}._transition_10zn0_414{max-width:var(--main);padding:0 var(--gutter);color:var(--gris);font:italic 400 clamp(1.25rem, 1.1rem + .8vw, 1.7rem)/1.35 var(--serif-italic);text-align:center;margin:40px auto 0}._transition_10zn0_414:before{content:"◆";color:var(--ocre);font:400 .8rem/1 var(--sans);margin-bottom:10px;display:block}._frame_10zn0_323{margin:20px 0 0}._frameImage_10zn0_324{background:#e9e1d3;overflow:hidden}._frame_10zn0_323 img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:var(--m-ratio);object-fit:cover;object-position:var(--m-focus);display:block}._frame_10zn0_323 figcaption{color:var(--gris);letter-spacing:.02em;margin-top:6px;font-size:.78rem;line-height:1.4}._frame_10zn0_323 figcaption a{-webkit-text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, var(--gris) 40%, transparent);text-decoration-color:color-mix(in srgb, var(--gris) 40%, transparent)}._half_10zn0_433{max-width:460px}._thumb_10zn0_434{max-width:300px}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437{margin:clamp(48px,7vw,96px) 0 0;padding:0}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437 ._frameImage_10zn0_324{background:#e9e1d3;max-width:1440px;margin:0 auto}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437 figcaption{max-width:var(--main);padding:0 var(--gutter);color:var(--gris);text-align:center;margin:14px auto 0}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437 figcaption a{color:inherit}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437._night_10zn0_441{background:#101216;padding:clamp(28px,5vw,64px) 0}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437._night_10zn0_441 ._frameImage_10zn0_324{background:#101216}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437._night_10zn0_441 figcaption{color:#c9c3b6}._breakPhoto_10zn0_437._night_10zn0_441 figcaption a{color:#e8e1d3}._moment_10zn0_448{padding-top:var(--gutter);background:var(--tone);color:var(--ink);margin-top:clamp(56px,8vw,112px)}._momentPhoto_10zn0_450{width:min(1200px, 100% - 2 * var(--gutter));margin:0 auto}._momentPhoto_10zn0_450 ._frameImage_10zn0_324{max-width:none;margin:0}._momentPhoto_10zn0_450 figcaption{color:inherit;opacity:.85;text-align:right;padding:8px 0 0}._momentPhoto_10zn0_450 figcaption 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